ABOUT MILAN AV-JC
As a pattern maker specialized in CAD systems (Computer Aided Design) Mylène L'Orguilloux initiated the R&D project MILAN AV-JC, to explore Zero Waste Design philosophy.
Tired of being asked to follow environmentally absurd industrial design rules, she now explores new design techniques to create zero waste clothing patterns. Being able to see the "zero waste" constraint as a source of creativity is, according to her, a sustainable and innovative answer to the environmental disaster caused by the "world's second most polluting industry"...the fashion industry.
Garment creation, is not only about fashion designers' skills, it's also about pattern makers', pattern graders', pattern cutters'.. even though we often forget them. This R&D project brings them all together at the same level, in order to recreate a multidisciplinary discussion and make conscious design decisions.
After a 10 year long journey in textile, this project has a unique objective: Initiating a meaningful change in conventional fashion design & static pattern making practices.
MILAN AV-JC also supports initiatives which fight against ethical & ecological fashion drifts
By the way...our power as consumers is nothing other than a political power. Never underestimate it !
" Fashion School "
Integration of the textile manufacturing processes
Best French apprentice challenge - Silver medal for the Brittany region
Clothing & Ready to wear section
Just graduated, now I need to speak english...
challenge completed. Arrived in Bordeaux
I am technically fascinated about the textile industry but still I can feel something is wrong. At the same time as my work at Lectra, I start researching, I read books and follow textile news to hopefully understand ..
outsourcing – overproduction - EXPLOITATION – overconsumption - POLLUTION
A sad report... and all of those brilliant activities are connected to one common trend: fast fashion. Obviously I do not support this but whether I like it or not, I daily contribute to the whole system while supporting & advising fashion brands on Lectra CAD softwares.
time to look back
During these 365 days of sewing frantically during my personal time, I created 33 garments. This was also a great opportunity to collect, customize and recycle old fashioned clothes. I finally learnt how to treat textile consciously. Such a positive experience that I haven't stopped since.
However, while cutting all these garments, one detail struck me: the quantity of fabric leftovers which remain on the floor. I had never had the opportunity to cut 30 garments in a row before now, and never realized how much this fabric waste could be important at an industrial scale.
Then in my daily job (while observing hundreds of cutting plans in my mailbox) I finally woke up and analyzed the optimisation average I had ignored until then: at the cutting stage, 15% of the fabric used is systematically thrown away even though companies use automatic nesting softwares. A common practice, almost a norm. 15% of the energy and the money spent on growing, harvesting, weaving, shipping... etc is spent for NOTHING - aside polluting.
Why ? Why isn't it possible to waste less?
After a thoughtful period I realized that the 15% of leftover fabric were just the consequence of an excessive and reckless use of curves in conventional pattern making.
As cutting and manufacturing are often outsourced in developing countries, occidental fashion designers never have to face the amount of waste created by their own collections. When it comes to making design choices, fabric dimension constraint and pattern layout are secondary concerns.
Blaming Asian production units about their inability to manage waste ? Too easy
So I decided to focus on occidental pattern making practices. Conventional techniques are based on a block template inherited from "made to measure" garments. This template is a combination or horizantal and vertical measures that represent the body in an upright position. These conventional pattern blocks are taught in schools as the rules of garment making.
In spite of what we are taught at school- it is really absurd to think that we could not proceed differently ?
"Zero waste design " philosophy comes to me
Amongst my researches on alternative pattern cutting methods I finally found what I was looking for: The Zero Waste Design philosophy which demonstrates how we can study a garment design so all that all the pattern pieces fit together on the fabric without producing any waste. An approach which -at first- looks quite limited in terms creation and implementation but taking a longer look, it finally shows its full potential...
How to create
1st experience in Fablab 127° @Cap-sciences
During november 2015, I heard about fabalab potentials thanks to the "Post couture Collective" which offers an alternative to common fast fashion industry processes. On their website, they make seamless patterns available, so anyone can download and laser cut their own garment in the nearest fablab to them.
To test this concept I downloaded a digital T-shirt pattern from their website and went to the Fablab 127° @Cap sciences museum
Laser cut + manual assembly, definitely the perfect mix between technology and crafts. I loved it right away.
Combination of Zero Waste + lasercut
Being able to assemble a garment without any particular knowledge of sewing is an idea I was really interested in. I could see a real opportunity to encourage people to make real clothes of their own.
However, now that I knew about Zero Waste philosophy I could not ignore it. Post couture collective patterns had side connectors which (by their arrowed shape) created loads of unusable fabric scraps. Then I decided to create my own zero waste seamless technique and opted for slits and ribbon to pass through the garment...
Highly content with the technical experience I had in CAD Software support team and by the numerous reflexion periods I had, thanks to all my side projects, I decided to bring my mission with Lectra to an end.
A decision taken with the unique ambition of including my ecological convictions in my daily actions at work.
end of my collaboration with Lectra
Textile residency - Derby Silk Mill Museum (UK)
Thanks to the Creative Museum Initiative I have had the chance to be part of the Silk Mill project, as a Maker in Residence for the last two weeks (26th September – 7th October).
The aim of my residence was to help the Silk Mill understand how their digital assets could be better integrated into their textile program and create a relationship with the traditional approach to textiles.
Built on my experience of creating sewing-machine free garments and leather goods; we thought this could be a great opportunity to prototype an item of clothing using the workshop laser cutter. The item could be a belt or a sash, which would be used to hold materials, tools, and objects, helping workers with mobile projects.
got involved in the exhibition "I have nothing to wear"
@la Maison Eco-citoyenne (Bordeaux)
Contacted by the Maison Eco-citoyenne team during summer 2016, I accepted to get involved in the next exhibition called "J'ai rien à m'mettre" (I have nothing to wear) visible on the outside walls of the building. Open to the public from december 2016 to August 2017, it aimed to raise awareness about the current fast fashion drifts but also to present sustainable and local alternatives to the public such as:
- Garment rental
- Fair trade
- Recycling and repairs
- Natural and recycled materials
- Local makers
- Made in France
- Second hand clothes
> A great opportunity to show a bit of what I had made during my earlier fast fashion rebellion: second hand garment alterations !
got selected for the innovation residencies @Fablab 127°
Cap Sciences Museum (Bordeaux)
This month spent @Fablab 127° aimed to facilitate and speed up the innovative process of the 3 selected projects.
So, thanks to this opportunity I have had the chance to:
- go further on my laser cutter experimentation
- prototype seamless zero waste leather bags
- organize textile workshops with people
[ R&D ]
Zero waste Design & 3D prototyping for new textile products
[ Consulting ]
Expertise sharing & support for Zero Waste Design implementation
[ Education ]
Fashion schools workshops to help upcoming designers being comfortable with sustainable design practices & 3D prototyping.
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