ABOUT MILAN AV-JC

Drapeau de la France
 

vision

       As a pattern maker specialized in CAD systems (Computer Aided Design) Mylène L'Orguilloux initiated the R&D project MILAN AV-JC, to explore Zero Waste Design philosophy.
Tired of being asked to follow environmentally absurd industrial design rules, she now explores new design techniques to create zero waste clothing patterns. Being able to see the "zero waste" constraint as a source of creativity is, according to her, a sustainable and innovative answer to the environmental disaster caused by the "world's second most polluting industry"...the fashion industry.
Garment creation, is not only about fashion designers' skills, it's also about pattern makers', pattern graders', pattern cutters'.. even though we often forget them. This R&D project brings them all together at the same level, in order to recreate a multidisciplinary discussion and make conscious design decisions.

After a 10 year long journey in textile, this project has a unique objective:
Initiating a meaningful change in conventional fashion design & static pattern making practices.
MILAN AV-JC also supports initiatives which fight against ethical & ecological fashion drifts
By the way...our power as consumers is nothing other than a political power. Never underestimate it !

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mylene's journey

> 2006 - 2008 - 2012 - 2013 - 2014 - 2015 - 2016 - 2017...

2006 

" Fashion School "

Integration of the textile manufacturing processes

 
 

2008

Best French apprentice challenge - Silver medal for the Brittany region

Clothing & Ready to wear section

 

SEPTEMBER 2012

Just graduated, now I need to speak english...
(properly)

 

MARCH 2013

challenge completed. Arrived in Bordeaux 

JUne 2013

Beginning at LECTRA as a CAD software specialist (Modaris 2D/3D, Diamino, Justprint)
-  Technical support for fashion companies -

JANuary 2014

Thinking time

WTF ?

I am technically fascinated about the textile industry but still I can feel something is wrong. At the same time as my work at Lectra, I start researching, I read books and follow textile news to hopefully understand ..
 

outsourcing – overproduction - EXPLOITATION – overconsumption - POLLUTION

A sad report... and all of those brilliant activities are connected to one common trend: fast fashion. Obviously I do not support this but whether I like it or not, I daily contribute to the whole system while supporting & advising fashion brands on Lectra CAD softwares.

 

JUNE 2014

I boycott

Instead of quitting this "needed" job, I decide to start a personal rebellion and take up the challenge of spending 365 days without buying any brand new clothes in order to boycott big textile companies

365

 

AprIL 2015

Got involved in the "Fashion Revolution day" movement

JUne 2015

time to look back

During these 365 days of sewing frantically during my personal time, I created 33 garments. This was also a great opportunity to collect, customize and recycle old fashioned clothes. I finally learnt how to treat textile consciously. Such a positive experience that I haven't stopped since.

However, while cutting all these garments, one detail struck me: the quantity of fabric leftovers which remain on the floor. I had never had the opportunity to cut 30 garments in a row before now, and never realized how much this fabric waste could be important at an industrial scale.

Then in my daily job (while observing hundreds of cutting plans in my mailbox) I finally woke up and analyzed the optimisation average I had ignored until then: at the cutting stage, 15% of the fabric used is systematically thrown away even though companies use automatic nesting softwares. A common practice, almost a norm. 15% of the energy and the money spent on growing, harvesting, weaving, shipping... etc is spent for NOTHING - aside polluting.

Why ? Why isn't it possible to waste less?

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After a thoughtful period I realized that the 15% of leftover fabric were just the consequence of an excessive and reckless use of curves in conventional pattern making.
As cutting and manufacturing are often outsourced in developing countries, occidental fashion designers never have to face the amount of waste created by their own collections. When it comes to making design choices, fabric dimension constraint and pattern layout are secondary concerns.

Blaming Asian production units about their inability to manage waste ? Too easy
So I decided to focus on occidental pattern making practices. Conventional techniques are based on a block template inherited from "made to measure" garments. This template is a combination or horizantal and vertical measures that represent the body in an upright position. These conventional pattern blocks are taught in schools as the rules of garment making.

In spite of what we are taught at school- it is really absurd to think that we could not proceed differently ?

SEPTEMBer 2015

"Zero waste design " philosophy comes to me

Amongst my researches on alternative pattern cutting methods I finally found what I was looking for: The Zero Waste Design philosophy which demonstrates how we can study a garment design so all that all the pattern pieces fit together on the fabric without producing any waste. An approach which -at first- looks quite limited in terms creation and implementation but taking a longer look, it finally shows its full potential...

How to create
squares with
circles ?

NOVEMBer 2015

 1st experience in Fablab 127° @Cap-sciences

During november 2015, I heard about fabalab potentials thanks to the "Post couture Collective" which offers an alternative to common fast fashion industry processes. On their website, they make seamless patterns available, so anyone can download and laser cut their own garment in the nearest fablab to them.

To test this concept I downloaded a digital T-shirt pattern from their website and went to the Fablab 127° @Cap sciences museum

Laser cut + manual assembly, definitely the perfect mix between technology and crafts. I loved it right away.

 

JANuary 2016

 Combination of  Zero Waste + lasercut

Being able to assemble a garment without any particular knowledge of sewing is an idea I was really interested in. I could see a real opportunity to encourage people to make real clothes of their own.
However, now that I knew about Zero Waste philosophy I could not ignore it. Post couture collective patterns had side connectors which (by their arrowed shape) created loads of unusable fabric scraps. Then I decided to create my own zero waste seamless technique and opted for slits and ribbon to pass through the garment...

ApRIL 2016

New challenge:  turn a conventional pattern into a zero waste one

First prototype made in real fabric

MAY 2016

SudWeb talk on my Zero Waste journey + Design of 180 Goodies

JUly 2016 

Highly content with the technical experience I had in CAD Software support team and by the numerous reflexion periods I had, thanks to all my side projects, I decided to bring my mission with Lectra to an end.
A decision taken with the unique ambition of including my ecological convictions in my daily actions at work.

end of my collaboration with Lectra

september 2016 

Textile residency - Derby Silk Mill Museum (UK)

Thanks to the Creative Museum Initiative I have had the chance to be part of the Silk Mill project, as a Maker in Residence for the last two weeks (26th September – 7th October).
The aim of my residence was to help the Silk Mill understand how their digital assets could be better integrated into their textile program and create a relationship with the traditional approach to textiles.
Built on my experience of creating sewing-machine free garments and leather goods; we thought this could be a great opportunity to prototype an item of clothing using the workshop laser cutter. The item could be a belt or a sash, which would be used to hold materials, tools, and objects, helping workers with mobile projects.

NOVEMBer 2016 

Launch of MILAN AV-JC project
with the help of Co-Actions (entrepreneur cooperative)

december 2016 

got involved in the exhibition "I have nothing to wear"
@la Maison Eco-citoyenne (Bordeaux)

Contacted by the Maison Eco-citoyenne team during summer 2016, I accepted to get involved in the next exhibition called "J'ai rien à m'mettre" (I have nothing to wear) visible on the outside walls of the building. Open to the public from december 2016 to August 2017, it aimed to raise awareness about the current fast fashion drifts but also to present sustainable and local alternatives to the public such as:
- Garment rental
- Fair trade
- Recycling and repairs
- Crafts
- Natural and recycled materials
- Local makers
- Made in France
- Second hand clothes

> A great opportunity to show a bit of what I had made during my earlier fast fashion rebellion: second hand garment alterations !

february 2017

got selected for the innovation residencies @Fablab 127° 
Cap Sciences Museum (Bordeaux)

MILAN AV-JC got selected for the innovation residencies organized by Cap Sciences Museum and Bordeaux Métropole.
 

This month spent @Fablab 127° aimed to facilitate and speed up the innovative process of the 3 selected projects.
 

So, thanks to this opportunity I have had the chance to:
- go further on my laser cutter experimentation
prototype seamless zero waste leather bags

- organize textile workshops with people 

 

MARch 2017

development & Animation of the
Workshop "Make your Bag" @Fablab 127°

zero waste seamless bag

APril 2017

- R&D -
Starting to design a full zero waste "specimen" collection 

R&D - Starting to design a full zero waste "specimen" collection Research & development of the first specimen collection to showcase the technical, innovative and creative potential of Zero Waste design philosophy.

september 2017

official release of the first zero waste "specimen" collection
Available in Open source 
HERE 

 

 contact

[ R&D ]
Zero waste Design & 3D prototyping for new textile products

[ Consulting ] 
Expertise sharing & support for Zero Waste Design implementation

 

​[ Education ]

Fashion schools workshops to help upcoming designers being comfortable with sustainable design practices & 3D prototyping.

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Get in touch for more details: 

contact@milanavjc.com

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